[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":372},["ShallowReactive",2],{"article-en-battery":3,"articles-en":275},{"id":4,"title":5,"applies_to":6,"author":8,"body":9,"confidence":251,"description":252,"extension":253,"faq":254,"meta":261,"navigation":262,"path":263,"seo":264,"sources":265,"stem":270,"test_bike":271,"topic":272,"updated":273,"__hash__":274},"content_en\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbattery.md","E-Bike Battery for a Conversion: Position, Space, Range",[7],"all","fabio-gentsch",{"type":10,"value":11,"toc":239},"minimark",[12,16,21,88,91,95,98,114,117,121,130,133,136,140,150,168,171,175,189,193,202,206,213,226,232,236],[13,14,15],"p",{},"The battery decides range, balance and safety of your conversion, and it is usually the most expensive single part of the kit. It sits best on the down tube, if there is room. Otherwise you are left with a rear rack, a frame bag or a handlebar battery. Measure the space before you order.",[17,18,20],"h2",{"id":19},"where-the-battery-can-go","Where the battery can go",[22,23,24,40],"table",{},[25,26,27],"thead",{},[28,29,30,34,37],"tr",{},[31,32,33],"th",{},"Position",[31,35,36],{},"Advantage",[31,38,39],{},"Drawback",[41,42,43,55,66,77],"tbody",{},[28,44,45,49,52],{},[46,47,48],"td",{},"Down tube",[46,50,51],{},"Low, central centre of gravity, calm handling",[46,53,54],{},"Needs room in the main triangle and bottle-cage bosses",[28,56,57,60,63],{},[46,58,59],{},"Rear rack",[46,61,62],{},"Possible on almost any bike",[46,64,65],{},"Higher, further back centre of gravity, bike feels tail-heavy",[28,67,68,71,74],{},[46,69,70],{},"Frame bag",[46,72,73],{},"Works on frames without bosses",[46,75,76],{},"Little room for capacity, the bag must sit securely",[28,78,79,82,85],{},[46,80,81],{},"Handlebar",[46,83,84],{},"Very compact systems, for example Swytch",[46,86,87],{},"Limited capacity, weight at the front",[13,89,90],{},"For balance the down tube is the best choice. That is experience, not a law. If your frame cannot take it, a rack battery is perfectly fine. You will only notice the extra weight at the back when you manoeuvre and push the bike.",[17,92,94],{"id":93},"measuring-the-space","Measuring the space",[13,96,97],{},"Many frame batteries need roughly 35 to 45 cm along the down tube. That is a rough range; the exact length is in the battery's data sheet. Here is how to go about it:",[99,100,101,105,108,111],"ol",{},[102,103,104],"li",{},"Measure the free, straight stretch of the down tube between the bottle-cage bosses or between other fittings such as cable guides.",[102,106,107],{},"Check the depth: does the battery clear the seat tube without touching the tyre or crank?",[102,109,110],{},"On frames with a low top tube or in small sizes, length is often the problem.",[102,112,113],{},"Check lock position and removal. You should be able to take the battery off without tools and without turning the bike around.",[13,115,116],{},"If it does not fit, it is not the end of the world. Take a rack battery or a frame bag instead. For a rack you only need to check its load rating.",[17,118,120],{"id":119},"cells-and-capacity","Cells and capacity",[13,122,123,124,129],{},"You get capacity in watt-hours from volts times amp-hours. 36 V times 14 Ah is 504 Wh. More Wh means more range, but also more weight and a higher price. See the ",[125,126,128],"a",{"href":127},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fglossary","glossary"," for more.",[13,131,132],{},"Branded cells from Samsung, LG, Panasonic or Molicel generally last longer and are considered safer than no-name cells. The extra cost is usually worth it, because the battery is where cutting corners backfires most often. Ask the dealer which cells are used. If they will not say, there is usually a reason.",[13,134,135],{},"Battery, controller and display must share the same voltage. A 48 V battery on a 36 V kit is not an option.",[17,137,139],{"id":138},"range-what-you-actually-get","Range: what you actually get",[13,141,142,143,149],{},"Manufacturer figures assume ideal conditions. In reality you often get only about 70 % of them (",[125,144,148],{"href":145,"rel":146},"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.giga.de\u002Ftech\u002Fwer-billig-kauft-kauft-zweimal-diese-fehler-solltet-ihr-vermeiden-wenn-ihr-eurer-fahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbaut--01K0YYJEVGW05AE9TTBCPW0DAM",[147],"nofollow","GIGA","). As a rule of thumb, plan on 8 to 15 Wh per kilometre. A 500 Wh battery then takes you roughly 33 to 60 km. The range is wide because several things play in:",[151,152,153,156,159,162,165],"ul",{},[102,154,155],{},"Terrain and headwind",[102,157,158],{},"Your weight and any luggage",[102,160,161],{},"Assist level and how much you pedal yourself",[102,163,164],{},"Cold, which reduces usable capacity",[102,166,167],{},"Tyre pressure and rolling resistance",[13,169,170],{},"When in doubt, plan generously and use the lower end of the range.",[17,172,174],{"id":173},"safety","Safety",[151,176,177,180,183,186],{},[102,178,179],{},"Never charge unattended, especially not overnight in a hallway or on a flammable surface.",[102,181,182],{},"Use only the matching charger. Third-party chargers with the same plug are a typical source of trouble.",[102,184,185],{},"After a fall, check the battery and its casing. Dents, cracks, smell or heat are warning signs. Do not charge it again then.",[102,187,188],{},"Store the battery dry, and not in direct sun or in a car.",[17,190,192],{"id":191},"eu-battery-regulation-from-2027","EU battery regulation from 2027",[13,194,195,196,201],{},"From February 2027, batteries are meant to be replaceable by specialists, and replacement batteries are meant to stay available for five years (",[125,197,200],{"href":198,"rel":199},"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.bike-x.de\u002Fe-bike\u002Fnews\u002Feu-batteriegesetz-2027-das-aendert-sich-bald-fuer-e-bike-akkus\u002F",[147],"bike-x","). For you that means spare batteries should get easier to find for new products. Whether this applies equally to conversion kits from outside the EU is unclear. When buying, look for a dealer in the EU who offers replacements.",[17,203,205],{"id":204},"disposal","Disposal",[13,207,208,209,212],{},"Batteries never belong in household waste (",[125,210,200],{"href":198,"rel":211},[147],"). Hand them in at collection points, at a specialist shop or at a recycling centre. If a battery is defective or damaged, say so beforehand, as these need separate handling. Tape over the terminals for transport.",[13,214,215,216,220,221,225],{},"What a battery costs and how it fits into the total price is covered under ",[125,217,219],{"href":218},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fcosts","costs",". Which motors go with which battery is in ",[125,222,224],{"href":223},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fmotor-types","motor types",".",[13,227,228],{},[125,229,231],{"href":230},"\u002Fen\u002Fconfigurator","Does a conversion fit your bike?",[17,233,235],{"id":234},"how-reliable-is-this","How reliable is this?",[13,237,238],{},"The statements on range (70 %), the EU battery regulation and disposal come from the linked sources. Position, space requirements, cell brands and the safety tips are experience and assumptions that Fabio is still checking.",{"title":240,"searchDepth":241,"depth":241,"links":242},"",2,[243,244,245,246,247,248,249,250],{"id":19,"depth":241,"text":20},{"id":93,"depth":241,"text":94},{"id":119,"depth":241,"text":120},{"id":138,"depth":241,"text":139},{"id":173,"depth":241,"text":174},{"id":191,"depth":241,"text":192},{"id":204,"depth":241,"text":205},{"id":234,"depth":241,"text":235},"assumption","Where the battery fits on a converted bike, how to measure the space, what branded cells bring, real-world range and how to dispose of it.","md",[255,258],{"q":256,"a":257},"How far will a conversion battery really take me?","Expect about 70 % of the manufacturer's figure. A rule of thumb is 8 to 15 Wh per kilometre, depending on terrain, weight and assist level.",{"q":259,"a":260},"Can I put an old e-bike battery in the household bin?","No. Batteries go to a collection point, a dealer or a recycling centre, never into household waste.",{},true,"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbattery",{"title":5,"description":252},[266,268],{"title":267,"url":145},"GIGA: mistakes when converting to an e-bike",{"title":269,"url":198},"bike-x: EU battery regulation 2027","en\u002Fwissen\u002Fbattery",null,"akku","2026-11-09","UK3y-TJUhPsrb2YhySL7eYFiOzA6XNC2yRMnzhcwnjI",[276,278,284,290,296,302,308,314,320,328,335,341,347,354,360,366],{"path":263,"title":5,"description":252,"topic":272,"applies_to":277,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},[7],{"path":279,"title":280,"description":281,"topic":282,"applies_to":283,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbrakes","Brakes for an E-Bike Conversion: What You Need","Rim or disc, cut-off levers and sensors: which brakes are enough for a 250 W pedelec and when an upgrade is needed.","bremsen",[7],{"path":285,"title":286,"description":287,"topic":288,"applies_to":289,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcoaster-brake","Coaster Brake and E-Bike Conversion: What Works","A coaster brake is the most common deal-breaker. Which motors work, where coaster-brake variants exist and when to leave it.","ruecktrittbremse",[7],{"path":291,"title":292,"description":293,"topic":294,"applies_to":295,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcommon-problems","Common Problems After an E-Bike Conversion","Axle spinning, broken spokes, motor cutting out, jerky starts, fast chain wear: causes and fixes from everyday conversions.","haeufige-probleme",[7],{"path":297,"title":298,"description":299,"topic":300,"applies_to":301,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fconvert-bike-to-ebike","Convert a Bike to an E-Bike: Overview and Steps","What a conversion costs, which motor fits, what the law says and when you should buy a used e-bike instead. An honest overview from the workshop.","fahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbauen",[7],{"path":303,"title":304,"description":305,"topic":306,"applies_to":307,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcosts","What Does an E-Bike Conversion Really Cost?","Cost items at a glance: kit EUR 400 to 1,700, brakes, tools, small parts. Plus the comparison with used and new (about EUR 2,500) and the cost calculator.","kosten",[7],{"path":309,"title":310,"description":311,"topic":312,"applies_to":313,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fframe-and-weight","Frame and Weight: Which Bike Suits a Conversion","Steel and aluminium are usually fine, carbon is not. Plus the magnet test, total weight, warranty and the wear parts to replace before converting.","rahmen-und-gewicht",[7],{"path":315,"title":316,"description":317,"topic":318,"applies_to":319,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fglossary","E-Bike Conversion Glossary: Terms Explained","Rated power, volts, watt-hours, newton metres, PAS, torque sensor, Higo and Julet, controller and display: the glossary for e-bike conversions.","begriffe",[7],{"path":321,"title":322,"description":323,"topic":324,"applies_to":325,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fhub-spacing","Hub Spacing and Axles for an E-Bike Conversion","How to measure hub spacing, quick release versus thru-axle, spreading 130 to 135 mm on steel frames and what to watch with dropouts.","einbaubreite",[326,327],"front","rear",{"path":329,"title":330,"description":331,"topic":332,"applies_to":333,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmeasure-bottom-bracket","Measure Your Bottom Bracket for a Mid-Drive","How to measure shell width and bore of your bottom bracket and tell BSA 68\u002F73, Pressfit and BB30 apart. Step by step for a mid-drive motor.","tretlager-messen",[334],"mid",{"path":336,"title":337,"description":338,"topic":339,"applies_to":340,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmid-drive-vs-hub-motor","Mid-Drive or Hub Motor: What Suits You?","Ride feel, hills, gears, installation and cost compared, with a clear guide to when a mid-drive and when a front or rear hub motor makes sense.","mittelmotor-oder-nabenmotor",[334,326,327],{"path":342,"title":343,"description":344,"topic":345,"applies_to":346,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmotor-types","E-Bike Conversion Motor Types Compared","Front, rear and mid-drive motors, friction rollers and seat-tube motors compared: feel, installation, cost and which bikes suit which.","motorarten",[7],{"path":348,"title":349,"description":350,"topic":351,"applies_to":352,"confidence":353,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fpedelec-law","Pedelec Law: 250 W, 25 km\u002Fh and Walking Assist","What a conversion may do legally: 250 W rated power, assist only while pedalling up to 25 km\u002Fh, walking assist up to 6 km\u002Fh and what lies beyond.","pedelec-recht",[7],"source",{"path":355,"title":356,"description":357,"topic":358,"applies_to":359,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftools","Tools for an E-Bike Conversion: The List","Which tools you need for front, rear and mid-drive conversions and what kits usually lack, above all the lockring tool.","werkzeug",[7],{"path":361,"title":362,"description":363,"topic":364,"applies_to":365,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftorque-arm","Torque Arm: When You Need One","Why the axle of a hub motor turns in the dropout, when you need a torque arm and how to fit it.","drehmomentstuetze",[326,327],{"path":367,"title":368,"description":369,"topic":370,"applies_to":371,"confidence":251,"updated":273,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fwheel-sizes","Wheel Sizes and ETRTO for E-Bike Conversions","Inches are unreliable, ETRTO is not: how to read wheel size off the tyre and avoid the 635\u002F622 and 406\u002F451 traps.","laufradgroessen",[326,327],1794247507090]