[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":638},["ShallowReactive",2],{"article-en-convert-bike-to-ebike":3,"articles-en":541},{"id":4,"title":5,"applies_to":6,"author":8,"body":9,"confidence":510,"description":511,"extension":512,"faq":513,"meta":523,"navigation":524,"path":525,"seo":526,"sources":527,"stem":536,"test_bike":537,"topic":538,"updated":539,"__hash__":540},"content_en\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fconvert-bike-to-ebike.md","Convert a Bike to an E-Bike: Overview and Steps",[7],"all","fabio-gentsch",{"type":10,"value":11,"toc":492},"minimark",[12,16,21,32,36,98,101,105,183,194,198,261,265,272,276,322,333,337,340,366,374,378,381,401,408,412,415,419,441,445,450,453,457,465,469,479,483,486],[13,14,15],"p",{},"Yes, you can convert most ordinary bikes with a steel or aluminium frame. A kit with battery costs roughly 400 to 1,700 euros, depending on motor type and quality. Whether it works on your bike comes down to brakes, frame, hub spacing and drivetrain, and that is what we go through here, one step at a time.",[17,18,20],"h2",{"id":19},"is-it-worth-it","Is it worth it?",[13,22,23,24,31],{},"A conversion is worth it if you have a bike you like, that fits you well, with a solid frame. It is not worth it if brakes, wheel and worn parts end up costing nearly as much as a used e-bike. A new e-bike costs about 2,500 euros on average (",[25,26,30],"a",{"href":27,"rel":28},"https:\u002F\u002Fupway.de\u002Fblogs\u002Fnews\u002Ffahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbauen",[29],"nofollow","Upway","). If your conversion, all in, heads that way, be honest with yourself: skip it and buy used.",[17,33,35],{"id":34},"how-a-conversion-works","How a conversion works",[37,38,39,47,58,64,75,81,87],"ol",{},[40,41,42,46],"li",{},[43,44,45],"strong",{},"Record your bike."," Note wheel size, hub spacing, brakes, gearing, bottom bracket and frame material.",[40,48,49,52,53,57],{},[43,50,51],{},"Choose a motor type."," Front, rear or mid-drive (see below and ",[25,54,56],{"href":55},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fmotor-types","motor types compared",").",[40,59,60,63],{},[43,61,62],{},"Buy a kit."," Check voltage, continuous rated power, sensor type and pedelec compliance.",[40,65,66,69,70,57],{},[43,67,68],{},"Replace worn parts first."," Chain, pads, tyres and brakes before the conversion, not after (",[25,71,74],{"href":72,"rel":73},"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.giga.de\u002Ftech\u002Fwer-billig-kauft-kauft-zweimal-diese-fehler-solltet-ihr-vermeiden-wenn-ihr-eurer-fahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbaut--01K0YYJEVGW05AE9TTBCPW0DAM",[29],"GIGA",[40,76,77,80],{},[43,78,79],{},"Install."," Motor, battery, sensors, display and brake levers with cut-off.",[40,82,83,86],{},[43,84,85],{},"Route and test the cables."," Connectors are usually the most common source of faults.",[40,88,89,92,93,57],{},[43,90,91],{},"Set up and check."," With Bafang controllers you can check the speed limit with a programming cable (",[25,94,97],{"href":95,"rel":96},"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.netzwelt.de\u002Fnews\u002F257770-fahrrad-e-bike-umruesten-systeme-gibt-ab-rund-500-euro-aufwaerts.html",[29],"netzwelt",[13,99,100],{},"For a first install, plan on an afternoon up to a weekend, depending on motor type. The mid-drive is the most work.",[17,102,104],{"id":103},"motor-types-in-short","Motor types in short",[106,107,108,124],"table",{},[109,110,111],"thead",{},[112,113,114,118,121],"tr",{},[115,116,117],"th",{},"Motor",[115,119,120],{},"Strength",[115,122,123],{},"Weakness",[125,126,127,139,150,161,172],"tbody",{},[112,128,129,133,136],{},[130,131,132],"td",{},"Front hub",[130,134,135],{},"cheap, easy install",[130,137,138],{},"weight at the front, traction when wet",[112,140,141,144,147],{},[130,142,143],{},"Rear hub",[130,145,146],{},"good traction, balanced",[130,148,149],{},"usually needs derailleur gears",[112,151,152,155,158],{},[130,153,154],{},"Mid-drive",[130,156,157],{},"most natural feel, strong on hills",[130,159,160],{},"complex install, more chain wear",[112,162,163,166,169],{},[130,164,165],{},"Friction roller",[130,167,168],{},"light, removable",[130,170,171],{},"little power, tyre wear",[112,173,174,177,180],{},[130,175,176],{},"Seat-tube motor",[130,178,179],{},"little intervention on the bike",[130,181,182],{},"needs a straight seat tube, expensive",[13,184,185,186,188,189,193],{},"Details are in ",[25,187,56],{"href":55},". If you are torn between mid-drive and hub motor, see ",[25,190,192],{"href":191},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fmid-drive-vs-hub-motor","mid-drive or hub motor",".",[17,195,197],{"id":196},"what-your-bike-needs-to-offer","What your bike needs to offer",[199,200,201,211,221,231,241,251],"ul",{},[40,202,203,206,207,193],{},[43,204,205],{},"Frame and fork:"," Steel and aluminium are suitable, carbon is not (GIGA). More under ",[25,208,210],{"href":209},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fframe-and-weight","frame and weight",[40,212,213,216,217,193],{},[43,214,215],{},"Hub spacing:"," At the rear, 135 mm is standard for most hub motors; at the front it is usually 100 mm. See ",[25,218,220],{"href":219},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fhub-spacing","hub spacing",[40,222,223,226,227,193],{},[43,224,225],{},"Wheel size:"," The ETRTO number on the tyre counts, not the inch name. See ",[25,228,230],{"href":229},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fwheel-sizes","wheel sizes",[40,232,233,236,237,193],{},[43,234,235],{},"Brakes:"," More weight and speed push rim brakes to their limits. See ",[25,238,240],{"href":239},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fbrakes","brakes",[40,242,243,246,247,193],{},[43,244,245],{},"Coaster brake:"," The most common deal-breaker. See ",[25,248,250],{"href":249},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fcoaster-brake","coaster brake",[40,252,253,256,257,193],{},[43,254,255],{},"Bottom bracket (mid-drive only):"," See ",[25,258,260],{"href":259},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fmeasure-bottom-bracket","measure your bottom bracket",[17,262,264],{"id":263},"the-battery","The battery",[13,266,267,268,193],{},"The battery decides range and weight. Capacity in Wh is volts times amp-hours, for example 36 V × 14 Ah = 504 Wh. Real-world range is often only about 70 percent of the manufacturer's figure (GIGA). As a rule of thumb, assume 8 to 15 Wh per kilometre. Positions, space needed and safety are covered under ",[25,269,271],{"href":270},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fbattery","battery",[17,273,275],{"id":274},"costs","Costs",[106,277,278,288],{},[109,279,280],{},[112,281,282,285],{},[115,283,284],{},"Item",[115,286,287],{},"Range",[125,289,290,298,306,314],{},[112,291,292,295],{},[130,293,294],{},"Kit with battery",[130,296,297],{},"400–1,700 €",[112,299,300,303],{},[130,301,302],{},"Brake upgrade",[130,304,305],{},"0–200 € (rule of thumb)",[112,307,308,311],{},[130,309,310],{},"Missing tools",[130,312,313],{},"0–100 € (rule of thumb)",[112,315,316,319],{},[130,317,318],{},"Small parts",[130,320,321],{},"20–60 € (rule of thumb)",[13,323,324,325,328,329,193],{},"Prices without guarantee, as of November 2026. A fuller breakdown is under ",[25,326,274],{"href":327},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fcosts",", the matching tools under ",[25,330,332],{"href":331},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Ftools","tools",[17,334,336],{"id":335},"law-what-is-allowed","Law: what is allowed",[13,338,339],{},"For your bike to stay legally a bicycle, it has to be a pedelec:",[199,341,342,349,359],{},[40,343,344,345,348],{},"Continuous rated power of at most ",[43,346,347],{},"250 watts",". Peak power can be higher, but many shops advertise exactly that peak. Look at the continuous rating.",[40,350,351,352,355,356,193],{},"Assistance ",[43,353,354],{},"only while pedalling"," and ",[43,357,358],{},"only up to 25 km\u002Fh",[40,360,361,362,365],{},"A throttle is only allowed as a ",[43,363,364],{},"walk-assist up to 6 km\u002Fh",", without pedalling.",[13,367,368,369,373],{},"Anything beyond that counts as a motor vehicle. Without a speed sensor a kit cannot hold 25 km\u002Fh (GIGA). More under ",[25,370,372],{"href":371},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fpedelec-law","pedelec law",". This is not legal advice.",[17,375,377],{"id":376},"budget-tiers","Budget tiers",[13,379,380],{},"Roughly three tiers (rules of thumb, no guarantee):",[199,382,383,389,395],{},[40,384,385,388],{},[43,386,387],{},"Budget, about 400 to 600 euros:"," usually a cadence sensor and no-name cells. Check pedelec compliance closely and expect little support.",[40,390,391,394],{},[43,392,393],{},"Solid, about 600 to 1,000 euros:"," torque sensor, branded cells, designed as a pedelec, EU dealer. For most people this is the sensible range.",[40,396,397,400],{},[43,398,399],{},"Premium, about 1,000 to 1,800 euros:"," finely tuned torque sensor, warranty and EU replacement battery, manufacturer in the German-speaking region.",[13,402,403,404,193],{},"The feel differs a lot between a cadence sensor and a torque sensor: the first feels like being pushed, the second assists in proportion to your pedalling. More in the ",[25,405,407],{"href":406},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fglossary","glossary",[17,409,411],{"id":410},"safety-and-upkeep-afterwards","Safety and upkeep afterwards",[13,413,414],{},"A converted bike is heavier and faster than before, and you notice it in the brakes, spokes and chain. After the first 100 kilometres, check spoke tension and bolts, especially with hub motors. Do not charge the battery unattended and inspect it after a crash. With a mid-drive, ease off pedalling when you shift so the chain does not suffer. These are experience-based values that Fabio is still checking.",[17,416,418],{"id":417},"when-to-leave-it","When to leave it",[199,420,421,424,427,430,438],{},[40,422,423],{},"The frame or fork is carbon.",[40,425,426],{},"The bike has a coaster brake and you want a rear hub motor.",[40,428,429],{},"The bike is old, its parts are worn, and you would have to replace brakes, wheel and drivetrain.",[40,431,432,433,57],{},"You do not want to wrench yourself and no workshop will take it on. Some workshops refuse conversions because they count as tampering with the manufacturer's product (",[25,434,437],{"href":435,"rel":436},"https:\u002F\u002Ffahrrad-xxl.at\u002Fblog\u002Fe-bike-umbausatz",[29],"Fahrrad XXL",[40,439,440],{},"You need the bike manufacturer's warranty. It usually lapses after a conversion (GIGA).",[17,442,444],{"id":443},"diy-or-workshop","DIY or workshop?",[13,446,447,448,193],{},"With some workshop experience you can manage a front or rear motor conversion yourself. You need time, patience and the right tools, above all a torque wrench. A mid-drive adds special tools such as a crank puller, a bottom bracket tool and often a lockring spanner that is not always in the kit. The list is under ",[25,449,332],{"href":331},[13,451,452],{},"If you are unsure, find a conversion-friendly workshop before you buy the kit. Ask specifically whether they accept kit conversions. That saves trouble if something sticks during lacing or setup. Hourly rates vary a lot by region, and we do not have firm figures yet.",[17,454,456],{"id":455},"the-first-kilometres","The first kilometres",[13,458,459,460,464],{},"Take your first rides on a quiet, familiar route. Test whether the motor cuts out immediately when you brake, whether it tapers off smoothly at 25 km\u002Fh and whether anything rubs or wobbles. If the motor judders, the cause is often the cadence sensor or a connector. If the power cuts out, check the connectors for water first. ",[25,461,463],{"href":462},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fcommon-problems","Common problems"," helps with this.",[17,466,468],{"id":467},"avoiding-typical-mistakes","Avoiding typical mistakes",[13,470,471,472,475,476,478],{},"Most problems come from cheap parts without pedelec compliance, a missing torque arm, mismatched voltages between battery and controller, or badly routed cables. An overview of causes and fixes is under ",[25,473,474],{"href":462},"common problems",". The ",[25,477,407],{"href":406}," explains unfamiliar terms.",[17,480,482],{"id":481},"how-reliable-is-this","How reliable is this?",[13,484,485],{},"Legal limits, the kit price range, frame material and warranty come from the sources named; rules of thumb on range, tools and extra costs and many compatibility details are experience or assumptions that Fabio is still checking.",[13,487,488],{},[25,489,491],{"href":490},"\u002Fen\u002Fconfigurator","Does a conversion fit your bike?",{"title":493,"searchDepth":494,"depth":494,"links":495},"",2,[496,497,498,499,500,501,502,503,504,505,506,507,508,509],{"id":19,"depth":494,"text":20},{"id":34,"depth":494,"text":35},{"id":103,"depth":494,"text":104},{"id":196,"depth":494,"text":197},{"id":263,"depth":494,"text":264},{"id":274,"depth":494,"text":275},{"id":335,"depth":494,"text":336},{"id":376,"depth":494,"text":377},{"id":410,"depth":494,"text":411},{"id":417,"depth":494,"text":418},{"id":443,"depth":494,"text":444},{"id":455,"depth":494,"text":456},{"id":467,"depth":494,"text":468},{"id":481,"depth":494,"text":482},"assumption","What a conversion costs, which motor fits, what the law says and when you should buy a used e-bike instead. An honest overview from the workshop.","md",[514,517,520],{"q":515,"a":516},"Can I convert any bike to an e-bike?","No. Carbon frames and forks are usually unsuitable, and a coaster brake or very weak brakes are common deal-breakers. Steel and aluminium frames are generally fine.",{"q":518,"a":519},"What does a conversion cost?","A kit with battery costs roughly 400 to 1,700 euros depending on motor type. Brakes, tools and small parts often come on top.",{"q":521,"a":522},"Is a conversion legal?","Yes, as long as the bike stays a pedelec: at most 250 watts continuous rated power, assistance only while pedalling and only up to 25 km\u002Fh. A throttle is only allowed as a walk-assist up to 6 km\u002Fh.",{},true,"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fconvert-bike-to-ebike",{"title":5,"description":511},[528,530,532,534],{"title":529,"url":72},"GIGA: mistakes when converting to an e-bike (German)",{"title":531,"url":27},"Upway: convert a bike to an e-bike (German)",{"title":533,"url":435},"Fahrrad XXL: e-bike conversion kit (German)",{"title":535,"url":95},"netzwelt: converting a bike to an e-bike (German)","en\u002Fwissen\u002Fconvert-bike-to-ebike",null,"fahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbauen","2026-11-09","A2WPugnnAMtvlPa-mAFOohUv7dk-fhFgwTIXQAustcY",[542,548,554,560,566,568,574,580,586,594,601,607,613,620,626,632],{"path":543,"title":544,"description":545,"topic":546,"applies_to":547,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbattery","E-Bike Battery for a Conversion: Position, Space, Range","Where the battery fits on a converted bike, how to measure the space, what branded cells bring, real-world range and how to dispose of it.","akku",[7],{"path":549,"title":550,"description":551,"topic":552,"applies_to":553,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbrakes","Brakes for an E-Bike Conversion: What You Need","Rim or disc, cut-off levers and sensors: which brakes are enough for a 250 W pedelec and when an upgrade is needed.","bremsen",[7],{"path":555,"title":556,"description":557,"topic":558,"applies_to":559,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcoaster-brake","Coaster Brake and E-Bike Conversion: What Works","A coaster brake is the most common deal-breaker. Which motors work, where coaster-brake variants exist and when to leave it.","ruecktrittbremse",[7],{"path":561,"title":562,"description":563,"topic":564,"applies_to":565,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcommon-problems","Common Problems After an E-Bike Conversion","Axle spinning, broken spokes, motor cutting out, jerky starts, fast chain wear: causes and fixes from everyday conversions.","haeufige-probleme",[7],{"path":525,"title":5,"description":511,"topic":538,"applies_to":567,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},[7],{"path":569,"title":570,"description":571,"topic":572,"applies_to":573,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcosts","What Does an E-Bike Conversion Really Cost?","Cost items at a glance: kit EUR 400 to 1,700, brakes, tools, small parts. Plus the comparison with used and new (about EUR 2,500) and the cost calculator.","kosten",[7],{"path":575,"title":576,"description":577,"topic":578,"applies_to":579,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fframe-and-weight","Frame and Weight: Which Bike Suits a Conversion","Steel and aluminium are usually fine, carbon is not. Plus the magnet test, total weight, warranty and the wear parts to replace before converting.","rahmen-und-gewicht",[7],{"path":581,"title":582,"description":583,"topic":584,"applies_to":585,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fglossary","E-Bike Conversion Glossary: Terms Explained","Rated power, volts, watt-hours, newton metres, PAS, torque sensor, Higo and Julet, controller and display: the glossary for e-bike conversions.","begriffe",[7],{"path":587,"title":588,"description":589,"topic":590,"applies_to":591,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fhub-spacing","Hub Spacing and Axles for an E-Bike Conversion","How to measure hub spacing, quick release versus thru-axle, spreading 130 to 135 mm on steel frames and what to watch with dropouts.","einbaubreite",[592,593],"front","rear",{"path":595,"title":596,"description":597,"topic":598,"applies_to":599,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmeasure-bottom-bracket","Measure Your Bottom Bracket for a Mid-Drive","How to measure shell width and bore of your bottom bracket and tell BSA 68\u002F73, Pressfit and BB30 apart. Step by step for a mid-drive motor.","tretlager-messen",[600],"mid",{"path":602,"title":603,"description":604,"topic":605,"applies_to":606,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmid-drive-vs-hub-motor","Mid-Drive or Hub Motor: What Suits You?","Ride feel, hills, gears, installation and cost compared, with a clear guide to when a mid-drive and when a front or rear hub motor makes sense.","mittelmotor-oder-nabenmotor",[600,592,593],{"path":608,"title":609,"description":610,"topic":611,"applies_to":612,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmotor-types","E-Bike Conversion Motor Types Compared","Front, rear and mid-drive motors, friction rollers and seat-tube motors compared: feel, installation, cost and which bikes suit which.","motorarten",[7],{"path":614,"title":615,"description":616,"topic":617,"applies_to":618,"confidence":619,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fpedelec-law","Pedelec Law: 250 W, 25 km\u002Fh and Walking Assist","What a conversion may do legally: 250 W rated power, assist only while pedalling up to 25 km\u002Fh, walking assist up to 6 km\u002Fh and what lies beyond.","pedelec-recht",[7],"source",{"path":621,"title":622,"description":623,"topic":624,"applies_to":625,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftools","Tools for an E-Bike Conversion: The List","Which tools you need for front, rear and mid-drive conversions and what kits usually lack, above all the lockring tool.","werkzeug",[7],{"path":627,"title":628,"description":629,"topic":630,"applies_to":631,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftorque-arm","Torque Arm: When You Need One","Why the axle of a hub motor turns in the dropout, when you need a torque arm and how to fit it.","drehmomentstuetze",[592,593],{"path":633,"title":634,"description":635,"topic":636,"applies_to":637,"confidence":510,"updated":539,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fwheel-sizes","Wheel Sizes and ETRTO for E-Bike Conversions","Inches are unreliable, ETRTO is not: how to read wheel size off the tyre and avoid the 635\u002F622 and 406\u002F451 traps.","laufradgroessen",[592,593],1794247507270]