[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":410},["ShallowReactive",2],{"article-en-frame-and-weight":3,"articles-en":313},{"id":4,"title":5,"applies_to":6,"author":8,"body":9,"confidence":291,"description":292,"extension":293,"faq":294,"meta":301,"navigation":302,"path":303,"seo":304,"sources":305,"stem":308,"test_bike":309,"topic":310,"updated":311,"__hash__":312},"content_en\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fframe-and-weight.md","Frame and Weight: Which Bike Suits a Conversion",[7],"all","fabio-gentsch",{"type":10,"value":11,"toc":280},"minimark",[12,24,29,32,51,54,124,128,131,135,142,154,162,166,173,177,184,238,246,250,264,267,273,277],[13,14,15,16,23],"p",{},"Steel and aluminium frames are suitable for a conversion, carbon is not (",[17,18,22],"a",{"href":19,"rel":20},"https:\u002F\u002Fwww.giga.de\u002Ftech\u002Fwer-billig-kauft-kauft-zweimal-diese-fehler-solltet-ihr-vermeiden-wenn-ihr-eurer-fahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbaut--01K0YYJEVGW05AE9TTBCPW0DAM",[21],"nofollow","GIGA","). A kit with battery often weighs 6 to 8 kg, and your bike has to carry that together with you and your luggage. Before you order, check the material, the total weight and the condition of the wear parts.",[25,26,28],"h2",{"id":27},"identifying-the-material-the-magnet-test","Identifying the material: the magnet test",[13,30,31],{},"Not everyone knows what their own frame is made of. The simplest test needs only a magnet:",[33,34,35,39,42,45,48],"ol",{},[36,37,38],"li",{},"Hold a magnet to the down tube.",[36,40,41],{},"If it sticks, the frame is steel.",[36,43,44],{},"If it does not, it is aluminium, carbon or titanium.",[36,46,47],{},"Tap the tube gently with a knuckle. Carbon sounds dull and hard, aluminium brighter. This is unreliable but gives a hint.",[36,49,50],{},"Look at stickers and welds. Aluminium often shows thick, \"stacked\" weld beads, carbon usually has no visible welds.",[13,52,53],{},"When in doubt, the frame's label or a question to the manufacturer helps.",[55,56,57,73],"table",{},[58,59,60],"thead",{},[61,62,63,67,70],"tr",{},[64,65,66],"th",{},"Material",[64,68,69],{},"Suitability",[64,71,72],{},"Note",[74,75,76,92,102,113],"tbody",{},[61,77,78,82,85],{},[79,80,81],"td",{},"Steel",[79,83,84],{},"suitable",[79,86,87,88],{},"Robust. Dropouts can often be spread to 135 mm, see ",[17,89,91],{"href":90},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fhub-spacing","hub spacing",[61,93,94,97,99],{},[79,95,96],{},"Aluminium",[79,98,84],{},[79,100,101],{},"Do not spread the dropouts, a torque arm is especially important",[61,103,104,107,110],{},[79,105,106],{},"Carbon",[79,108,109],{},"not suitable",[79,111,112],{},"Copes poorly with point loads (GIGA)",[61,114,115,118,121],{},[79,116,117],{},"Titanium",[79,119,120],{},"unclear",[79,122,123],{},"Rare, ask the manufacturer in each case",[25,125,127],{"id":126},"why-not-carbon","Why not carbon",[13,129,130],{},"In a conversion, forces act in places the frame was not built for: the torque of a hub motor acts on the dropouts, and a mid-drive clamps into the bottom bracket shell and sends forces into the tubes. Carbon is strong in the direction the fibres run, but sensitive to clamping pressure and point loads. A crack is often invisible from the outside. That is why conversion is discouraged for carbon. It applies to frame and fork alike. With front motors especially, a carbon fork is a no-go.",[25,132,134],{"id":133},"total-weight","Total weight",[13,136,137,138,141],{},"On top of the bike's own weight come kit and battery, often 6 to 8 kg (",[17,139,22],{"href":19,"rel":140},[21],"). Then there is you and your luggage. So check:",[143,144,145,148,151],"ul",{},[36,146,147],{},"The permitted total weight of the bike, usually stated on the frame, the rack or in the manual",[36,149,150],{},"The load rating of the rack, if the battery goes there",[36,152,153],{},"The load capacity of the wheels and spokes",[13,155,156,157,161],{},"If you are already near the limit without a conversion, that is a warning sign. Weight also lengthens braking distances. More on that under ",[17,158,160],{"href":159},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fbrakes","brakes",".",[25,163,165],{"id":164},"warranty","Warranty",[13,167,168,169,172],{},"With a conversion, the bike manufacturer's warranty usually lapses (",[17,170,22],{"href":19,"rel":171},[21],"). On a bike that is still under warranty, that is a real disadvantage. Some workshops also refuse conversions because they count as a modification of the manufacturer's product. Find a conversion-friendly workshop before you start, and ask whether it will also service the bike later.",[25,174,176],{"id":175},"replace-wear-parts-before-converting","Replace wear parts before converting",[13,178,179,180,183],{},"A motor amplifies whatever is already weak on the bike. Replace worn parts beforehand (",[17,181,22],{"href":19,"rel":182},[21],"):",[55,185,186,196],{},[58,187,188],{},[61,189,190,193],{},[64,191,192],{},"Part",[64,194,195],{},"Why",[74,197,198,206,214,222,230],{},[61,199,200,203],{},[79,201,202],{},"Brake pads and cables",[79,204,205],{},"More weight and speed need full braking power",[61,207,208,211],{},[79,209,210],{},"Chain, cassette, chainrings",[79,212,213],{},"Higher wear, especially with mid-drives",[61,215,216,219],{},[79,217,218],{},"Tyres",[79,220,221],{},"Extra weight, punctures cost more",[61,223,224,227],{},[79,225,226],{},"Spokes and rims",[79,228,229],{},"The motor loads the wheel",[61,231,232,235],{},[79,233,234],{},"Bearings (headset, bottom bracket, hubs)",[79,236,237],{},"Play gets worse under load",[13,239,240,241,245],{},"Build this into your budget. It also appears in the overview under ",[17,242,244],{"href":243},"\u002Fen\u002Fknowledge\u002Fcosts","costs"," as small parts and brake upgrade.",[25,247,249],{"id":248},"when-a-bike-is-not-suitable","When a bike is not suitable",[143,251,252,255,258,261],{},[36,253,254],{},"Carbon frame or carbon fork",[36,256,257],{},"Frames with cracks, rust at load-bearing points or badly bent dropouts",[36,259,260],{},"Very light aluminium forks for front motors",[36,262,263],{},"Bikes that are at their weight limit even without a motor",[13,265,266],{},"In these cases we say it plainly: leave it, buy a used e-bike instead. In the end that can be cheaper and safer.",[13,268,269],{},[17,270,272],{"href":271},"\u002Fen\u002Fconfigurator","Does a conversion fit your bike?",[25,274,276],{"id":275},"how-reliable-is-this","How reliable is this?",[13,278,279],{},"The suitability of steel and aluminium, the advice against carbon, the kit weight of 6 to 8 kg, the loss of warranty and the need to replace wear parts come from the linked source. The magnet test and the explanation of why carbon is a problem are worded as experience and assumption; Fabio is still checking them.",{"title":281,"searchDepth":282,"depth":282,"links":283},"",2,[284,285,286,287,288,289,290],{"id":27,"depth":282,"text":28},{"id":126,"depth":282,"text":127},{"id":133,"depth":282,"text":134},{"id":164,"depth":282,"text":165},{"id":175,"depth":282,"text":176},{"id":248,"depth":282,"text":249},{"id":275,"depth":282,"text":276},"assumption","Steel and aluminium are usually fine, carbon is not. Plus the magnet test, total weight, warranty and the wear parts to replace before converting.","md",[295,298],{"q":296,"a":297},"Can I convert a carbon bike to an e-bike?","GIGA advises against it. Carbon copes poorly with the point loads from motor and torque. Steel and aluminium are suitable.",{"q":299,"a":300},"How do I find out whether my frame is steel?","Hold a magnet to the frame. If it sticks, it is steel. If not, it is aluminium, carbon or titanium.",{},true,"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fframe-and-weight",{"title":5,"description":292},[306],{"title":307,"url":19},"GIGA: mistakes when converting to an e-bike","en\u002Fwissen\u002Fframe-and-weight",null,"rahmen-und-gewicht","2026-11-09","VpEKNZKvsJLM7PzG24jpX5p2ALhRgAWGt3nvqZ7DNT8",[314,320,326,332,338,344,350,352,358,366,373,379,385,392,398,404],{"path":315,"title":316,"description":317,"topic":318,"applies_to":319,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbattery","E-Bike Battery for a Conversion: Position, Space, Range","Where the battery fits on a converted bike, how to measure the space, what branded cells bring, real-world range and how to dispose of it.","akku",[7],{"path":321,"title":322,"description":323,"topic":324,"applies_to":325,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fbrakes","Brakes for an E-Bike Conversion: What You Need","Rim or disc, cut-off levers and sensors: which brakes are enough for a 250 W pedelec and when an upgrade is needed.","bremsen",[7],{"path":327,"title":328,"description":329,"topic":330,"applies_to":331,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcoaster-brake","Coaster Brake and E-Bike Conversion: What Works","A coaster brake is the most common deal-breaker. Which motors work, where coaster-brake variants exist and when to leave it.","ruecktrittbremse",[7],{"path":333,"title":334,"description":335,"topic":336,"applies_to":337,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcommon-problems","Common Problems After an E-Bike Conversion","Axle spinning, broken spokes, motor cutting out, jerky starts, fast chain wear: causes and fixes from everyday conversions.","haeufige-probleme",[7],{"path":339,"title":340,"description":341,"topic":342,"applies_to":343,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fconvert-bike-to-ebike","Convert a Bike to an E-Bike: Overview and Steps","What a conversion costs, which motor fits, what the law says and when you should buy a used e-bike instead. An honest overview from the workshop.","fahrrad-zum-e-bike-umbauen",[7],{"path":345,"title":346,"description":347,"topic":348,"applies_to":349,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fcosts","What Does an E-Bike Conversion Really Cost?","Cost items at a glance: kit EUR 400 to 1,700, brakes, tools, small parts. Plus the comparison with used and new (about EUR 2,500) and the cost calculator.","kosten",[7],{"path":303,"title":5,"description":292,"topic":310,"applies_to":351,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},[7],{"path":353,"title":354,"description":355,"topic":356,"applies_to":357,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fglossary","E-Bike Conversion Glossary: Terms Explained","Rated power, volts, watt-hours, newton metres, PAS, torque sensor, Higo and Julet, controller and display: the glossary for e-bike conversions.","begriffe",[7],{"path":359,"title":360,"description":361,"topic":362,"applies_to":363,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fhub-spacing","Hub Spacing and Axles for an E-Bike Conversion","How to measure hub spacing, quick release versus thru-axle, spreading 130 to 135 mm on steel frames and what to watch with dropouts.","einbaubreite",[364,365],"front","rear",{"path":367,"title":368,"description":369,"topic":370,"applies_to":371,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmeasure-bottom-bracket","Measure Your Bottom Bracket for a Mid-Drive","How to measure shell width and bore of your bottom bracket and tell BSA 68\u002F73, Pressfit and BB30 apart. Step by step for a mid-drive motor.","tretlager-messen",[372],"mid",{"path":374,"title":375,"description":376,"topic":377,"applies_to":378,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmid-drive-vs-hub-motor","Mid-Drive or Hub Motor: What Suits You?","Ride feel, hills, gears, installation and cost compared, with a clear guide to when a mid-drive and when a front or rear hub motor makes sense.","mittelmotor-oder-nabenmotor",[372,364,365],{"path":380,"title":381,"description":382,"topic":383,"applies_to":384,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fmotor-types","E-Bike Conversion Motor Types Compared","Front, rear and mid-drive motors, friction rollers and seat-tube motors compared: feel, installation, cost and which bikes suit which.","motorarten",[7],{"path":386,"title":387,"description":388,"topic":389,"applies_to":390,"confidence":391,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fpedelec-law","Pedelec Law: 250 W, 25 km\u002Fh and Walking Assist","What a conversion may do legally: 250 W rated power, assist only while pedalling up to 25 km\u002Fh, walking assist up to 6 km\u002Fh and what lies beyond.","pedelec-recht",[7],"source",{"path":393,"title":394,"description":395,"topic":396,"applies_to":397,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftools","Tools for an E-Bike Conversion: The List","Which tools you need for front, rear and mid-drive conversions and what kits usually lack, above all the lockring tool.","werkzeug",[7],{"path":399,"title":400,"description":401,"topic":402,"applies_to":403,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Ftorque-arm","Torque Arm: When You Need One","Why the axle of a hub motor turns in the dropout, when you need a torque arm and how to fit it.","drehmomentstuetze",[364,365],{"path":405,"title":406,"description":407,"topic":408,"applies_to":409,"confidence":291,"updated":311,"author":8},"\u002Fen\u002Fwissen\u002Fwheel-sizes","Wheel Sizes and ETRTO for E-Bike Conversions","Inches are unreliable, ETRTO is not: how to read wheel size off the tyre and avoid the 635\u002F622 and 406\u002F451 traps.","laufradgroessen",[364,365],1794249628391]